Home to Bishkek

How city of my childhood trips became my city

Tynymgul Eshieva
5 min readDec 24, 2024

Recently, I visited the first place I ever lived in Bishkek. It brought back so many memories.

Just yesterday, Nursaule, my friend of over 25 years, unexpectedly showed up in my apartment I bought few years ago.

To celebrate, I decided to cook dymdama, the dish that brought us together all those years ago. As I returned to that old place, I couldn’t help but reflect on how much it’s changed, yet how much it still holds the memories of those early days. Here’s what it looks like now. But first let me tell the story of dymdama.

How I met Nursaule

The kitchen in the dorm had two stoves, and overall, it was comfortable to cook there; everything worked well. Aliya and I settled into our room, and after a while, Asel joined us, followed by Zhibek. A year after we started studying, Zhibek left for her home in the south, and we lost touch. I think the cost of paying for the tuition and living in Bishkek was just too much.

In our second year, Aliya, Asel, and I needed to find a fourth roommate. It was still September when Aliya brought a bottle of homemade jam, and we were getting ready to cook. Suddenly, Nursaule came over from the next room. As we opened the jam, it exploded, and our white walls were splattered with its color. I got completely drenched, my mother’s terry robe covered in jam. Seeing the chaos, Saule quickly came to our rescue. I whitewashed the walls while she helped us clean the floors. Aliya and I decided that this must be a good sign, and we thought she’d make a perfect fourth roommate. We offered her the spot, and she immediately agreed.

Here are some memories from that time…

First year we lived in the third floor of that building (center) and second year we lived on the fourth floor, because the third became the study auditorium. As you might see four girls could sleep, study, eat and wash in the same room.

It was incredibly convenient to live and study in the same place, especially right in the heart of the city. The story of my studies and the first year of university could fill an entire chapter on its own. But since my focus is more on the places I’ve lived, I have plenty of funny — and not so funny — stories to share about dormitory life.

We were very creative and acommodated all the beds as if we are children, I dreamt to sleep on two floor bed, but couldnot imagine that it will become real. Cooking was a duty and the room had rules and principles. We learnt different languages, as you can see on the wall.

New Bishkek and new Arabaev University

Today that dormitory building has changed, but those windows where we used to carry our fridge and meat are still remaining the same.

The Frunze I remember

During the workshop, we were asked how we remember Frunze-Bishkek. I had the chance to visit Frunze when I was little because my mother is from Naryn. Every year, we would fly to Frunze, stay with friends of my parents or with relatives, and then head to Naryn.

One of my vivid memories is a trip to the circus, where we took a photo near it, and in that picture, we all look so beautiful.

Mom, sister, me and Dad. We used to come to Frunze rarely, but every year and visit the most spectacular places.

We also visited the Central Department Store — ZUM — where they took a photo of me for Delo, the document required for my admission to first grade.

Me in Chinese dress made on fabrika Drujba. The photo was specially taken for the first class admission. My Mom kept this dress and recently presented to my niece, sister’s daughter.

Bishkek — My hometown or City

At 18, I came to Bishkek to study, and it wasn’t easy. It was the end of the 90s and the beginning of the 2000s — a very tough time for the country and the Kyrgyz people. My parents were either working or not working, and there was always a shortage of food. Supporting a student was a heavy financial burden on families. But my mother was determined, and we moved to the city despite the challenges.

I couldn’t get into the budget department and had to enroll on a contract basis at the new institute within Arabaev University, where they had just started teaching Oriental Studies. I chose Arabic as my major.

I lived in dormitories and a little bit in an apartment for almost 5 years. It was the hardest experience — there was hunger and a constant lack of money. But I focused on my studies, which helped ease the financial burden on my family when it came to paying the tuition. Overall, I remember Bishkek fondly because I was already immersing myself in its cultural life. However, the hardest times and some of the difficult situations I faced while living in the dormitory remain very vivid in my memory.

At the workshop, I recalled a different Bishkek. The Bishkek of my Soviet childhood — beautiful and full of charm, a city full of entertainment. Then there was Bishkek in the early 90s, when we often went to Dordoi, a massive bazaar, to buy school clothes and supplies for the whole season. And finally, there was Bishkek in the era of independence, where I found myself moving from one apartment to another without proper registration (propiska), since registration was still required institution in Kyrgyzstan. Thanks to the support of my family and sister, I was able to buy an apartment with a mortgage and finally become a legal resident of Bishkek.

Here is my journey to my home in Bishkek in the map

My Bishkek storymap with Chat GPT edition

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